Archive for the ‘Sustainability’ Category

Tangled in lost fishing gear

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010


We recently went on a trip to Hawai’i (my home state) where we were lucky enough to see a number of large marine animals, but some of these beautiful creatures were tangled in discarded fishing gear. Recreational fishing is not thought to have a significant impact on ecosystems in states other than Florida. While that may be true from a statistical point of view, it is hard to stomach seeing a dolphin or a turtle trailing someone’s fishing line from its mouth or flipper. Does this mean that recreational fishing should be more regulated? No, but it emphasizes the fact that all fishermen should be careful and responsible with their gear.

Here you can see a monofilament line wrapped several times around the left front flipper of a green sea turtle. Because the line will not degrade, it may restrict circulation as the turtle grows.

This dolphin we saw off of Kona has a hook in its mouth large enough to have snagged bits of algae. Although there have been attempts to catch the dolphin to remove the hook, the dolphin has so far proved too wily to let itself be caught. Whether or not the hook is causing pain or discomfort to the dolphin is difficult to tell. This low resolution still is taken from the video clip, below.

This spotted eagle ray was trailing a foot of leader with some of the hardware still attached. We can only hope that the stainless clip will not catch on anything.
I also saw a slate pencil urchin tangled up in a line attached to a golf ball. The golf ball had tiny eye hooks screwed into it so that it could be used as a sinker. Not sure what the point of this is… Is there an over abundance of golf balls in Hawaii? Is there a new casting technique involving a five iron? Some of the critters we captured on video can be seen below.

Larry Fukuhara, a local fishing expert at the Cabrillo Aquarium, notes that fishermen don’t usually want to lose their gear, since terminal tackle can be expensive to replace. Furthermore, fishermen have come a long way since the days when they would cut 300 yards of damaged monofilament line by letting it trail off the back of a boat. The key to retaining your gear, says Larry, is experience: knowing when and how to replace damaged line. In fishing for yellowtail, Larry may replace the last 100 yards of his line by splicing with a blood knot. Knowing that a yellowtail is unlikely to spool as much as 100 yards, this is a good technique to keep both the gear and the fish. Larry has also set up an electric drill to help him reel off as much line as he needs to replace without having to do it by hand. Braided Kevlar line is also an option, Larry says. Although it is more expensive, its breaking strength is far higher than monofilament.

On the whole, fishermen tend to be excellent stewards of our oceans. After all, they are the ones who are out there observing changes in populations and habitat, and fishermen generally recognize that there will be no recreational fishing without ocean conservation. It’s just unfortunate that individual animals can suffer as a cost of this increased awareness and involvement. If you decide to become a fisherman, please take Larry’s advice: learn your craft well and replace your line before it breaks off.

Question about the safety of wild vs. farmed salmon

Monday, August 9th, 2010


Here’s a question we recently received: Is farmed salmon really as safe to eat as wild salmon? …The short answer is yes.

Dr. Charles Santerre of Purdue University, whose area of expertise deals with women and children and their sensitivity to toxins, states that, “The best choice for pregnant women is farmed or wild salmon. These fish are high in healthy nutrients and low in pollutants. Farmed salmon is more affordable and available year round. The concerns over PCBs in farmed salmon have been evaluated by experts and found to be insignificant compared to the health benefits.”

Santerre puts into context the definitive study on PCBs and other contaminants in Pacific salmon (wild) and Atlantic salmon (farmed): Ronald A. Hites et al., “Global Assessment of Organic Contaminants in Farmed Salmon,” Science 303, no. 5655 (January 9, 2004): 226-229. (Note that the term “organic” is used in the chemical sense, not the agricultural sense.)

The Hites paper specifically begins saying, “…our preliminary study showed no significant difference in methylmercury levels between farmed and wild salmon.”

Hites found the average PCB level in farmed salmon to be 37 parts per billion (ppb), and the average PCB level in wild salmon to be 4 ppb. Compare this to the tolerance limit set by both the FDA and Health Canada: 2000 parts per billion.

The US EPA has a lower reference dose is based on the actual consumption rate and one’s body weight. For 132 pound person eating 12 oz. of cooked salmon per week, this limit is 50 ppb, according to this paper by toxicologist Charles Santerre: Charles R. Santerre, “Balancing the risks and benefits of fish for sensitive populations,” Journal of Foodservice 19, no. 4 (2008): 205-212.

Santerre advises that, in order to minimize PCB exposure regardless of species or level, cook the fish and cut off the skin.

Furthermore, Santerre notes that, “Americans receive 42% of dioxin-like compounds (which includes some of the PCBs) from meat products; 17% from dairy products; 12% from fruits and vegetables; 10% from poultry and eggs; 13% from other foods; and only 8% from fish products. Thus, when eating fish and not one of these other foods, consumers may actually be reducing their intake of dioxin- like compounds including PCBs.”

Four Fish Dinner at Ammo – Sustainable Tastes Better

Monday, August 9th, 2010


What does it take to get people interested in eating responsible seafood? Sustainability is confusing. Certainly it doesn’t help when the word is loosely tossed around in social and business settings as if it were the next political movement. Is the answer to blanket people with scientific reports, possibly scaring them towards more responsible seafood? There is biology indicating that we could be harming our oceans by fishing in environmentally unfriendly manners, yet at the same time, there is a significant amount of science showing that we need to eat more seafood. So how is it possible to achieve this balance?

Fortunately for groups like Seafood for the Future, Paul Greenberg, author of Four Fish- The future of the last wild food, recently introduced an effective strategy which is already involving people in making more conscious decisions about the food they eat. In one condensed effort he put aside all the calculated seafood talk and told a story. Actually he told many stories, covering four different species of fish and the voices of fisherman and fish farmers all over the globe. At the heart of his story is the relationship between a once abundant food source and the people that live on its survival. To make this story even more relevant, and actually follow through with a call to action such as “eat more sustainable seafood,” Paul Greenberg himself, the man,the myth, and the soon-to-be legend, co-hosted a dinner in Hollywood at AMMO restaurant last night (Sunday, August 8th) featuring only sustainable seafood.

If the goal of AMMO chef Daniel Mattern (formerly of Lucques, AOC and Clarklewis in Portland) was to make the diner think “wow sustainable tastes better!” than he succeeded 100%. Arctic Char, Carlsbad Oysters, Mussels, Clams, and Barramundi were all prepared with both simplicity and perfection. Chef’s skill was seamlessly laced through each dish, not in an arrogant manner, but instead as brief but bold brushstrokes, making each dish that much more flawless and further exemplifying our mission here at SFF that “seafood should be approachable.” Textures were certainly not forgotten either, something that can easily magnify any fish dining experience. The crisp celery in the hot smoked arctic char salad was an unexpected but impeccable addition and certainly a playful crunch. The fennel amongst the clams and mussels added essential tooth, and the innovative use of flat leaf Italian parsley within the grilled Barramundi dish played brilliantly against the richness of the fish. For those people whose number one seafood choice is the “bad boy” Chilean sea bass, chef’s grilled Barramundi should quickly jettison this new fish to the top spot as he has mastered the art of making barramundi as rich as fried rocky road ice cream.

Interestingly, every item on the menu was farmed. And while Greenberg doesn’t explicitly state that he wholeheartedly supports all fish farming in his book, his positive and encouraging statements were certainly a breath of fresh air in the world of Anti-Fish Farming campaigns.

Here are three condensed lessons to be learned:

1. Sustainability is more than numbers, it is about a story and the interrelated nature of the story’s elements. By not eating fish all together, communities reliant on the economies created through this trade will be destroyed. On the same note, however, by overfishing species, many communities are in peril as they no longer have a product to support their profession. Every story about this paradox is a springboard towards awareness and eventually mobilizing people to act through compromise and improvement.

2. Four Fish is a must read and a great gateway novel into the world of sustainability

3. If you haven’t been to AMMO restaurant, go ASAP- you won’t regret it

Ammo’s Sustainable Seafood Menu:

“Four Fish”

Carlsbad oysters on the half-shell with shallot mignonette & fresh horseradish

Hot-smoked Arctic char with marinated beets, chopped egg & celery seed vinaigrette

Pan-roasted mussels & clams with summer shell beans, pickled chili, and fennel pollen

Grilled barramundu with eggplant caponata, basil & aioli

Roasted figs with honey ice cream

*************************************************

AMMO Restaurant
1155 N. Highland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA

323.467.3293

A picture worth a thousand words

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Rather than take the recent suggestion of Food and Water Watch that we “Picture thousands of fish eating, excreting and growing in crowded, dirty operations that necessitate the use of chemicals, antibiotics and pesticides that can harm both consumers and the environment,” have a look at the following image.

This is an actual picture of one of the few commercial marine fish farms in the US: Kona Blue, which operates off of the Big Island of Hawai’i (click to enlarge). We’ll be visiting Kona Blue in September, so be sure to check back for more details. As always, we welcome photos and facts supporting other points of view. More pictures here.

The Best of the Best–City Sea Foods Brings on a New Chief Sustainability Officer

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

The seafood supply chain is a long one, some might even say too long–From water to plate, seafood will pass through various hands (quite literally) from the processor, wholesaler, distributor, restaurant, and finally, to the plate. Once an item is removed from the water it is imperative that it be handled with speed, care, and precision in order to make sure it doesn’t waste valuable time awaiting the final “seafoodie”. In addition, as the demand for well-managed seafood increases, every member in this distribution process plays a vital role in making sure that the final end user, the consumer, is able to feel confident selecting the most responsible seafood. If one step along this staircase of communication is weak, the entire framework for strengthening the sustainable supply chain becomes compromised. Even if the server at your favorite restaurant isn’t aware of the source of your fish, it is impossible to make an educated decision and, as many would suggest, “vote with your fork”. One of the most important, and arguably the most dynamic but often forgotten about roles in this procedure, is a seafood sales representative.

Seafood sales executives are pressured to not just stay on top of market trends, price fluctuations, the demands of overworked and temperamental chefs, but also the ability to be the educators for an industry that is responsible for serving over 80% of the seafood eaten in the United States. In addition to this, they are tasked with demystifying the hip world of sustainability, an arena that has become increasingly vague and full of skeptical green washing. It takes a distinctive person to manage this information, a few steps beyond the door-to-door vacuum sales that one might imagine. For all the chefs here in southern California, SFF is excited to introduce you to a new leader in the seafood world–Melissa Carrasquillo.

Melissa Carrasquillo was recently named sustainable seafood officer at the well-known City Sea Foods. Fortunately for us here at Seafood for the Future, we have had the opportunity of working closely with Melissa and can attest that she is by far one of the most passionate and energetic seafood mavens in southern California. Melissa exemplifies a vital link in the flow of information and education. Melissa’s role is responsible for connecting the work of many sustainable seafood programs, the restaurant world, and ultimately (and hopefully) the fisherman themselves. We applaud Melissa’s strategy to consolidate all of the information from various sources such as Blue Ocean Institute, Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, Seafood for the Future, and many others in an effort to amalgamate a bounty of reliable information.

City Sea Foods is continually pushing forward to establish the highest standards for purchasing only the most well-managed seafood. Melissa’s role within this challenge is one that makes the efforts of both consumers and fisherman alike more tangible. She is the source of information that restaurant decision-makers are seeking. Where did this fish come from? How was it caught? Is it under a fishery management plan? What are the sustainability ratings from within the world of NGO’s? All of these questions shape a sustainable purchasing policy, and if they are left unanswered, the industry as a whole suffers.

Read more about City Sea Foods and Melissa’s new position on Seafood Source.

If you are a chef looking for responsible seafood please email Melissa at melissac@cityseafoods.com