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More Sardines

When I was a wee little lad my mother used to make this god-awful fish dish. This dish was the idol of horrific gut wrenching food (sorry mom). I would sometimes wish I was eating my puppy’s Alpo instead or contracting necrotizing fasciitis from a Costa Rican banana farmer. It was akin to the smellier seafood version of Vienna sausages. I would ask my mother what we were eating and she would always respond “Sardines” (turns out it was really week old chicken). She was lying, but still perpetuating a crusade against the sardine, and I have been emotionally scarred ever since. The only reason I became a chef was so that no one would ever have to taste what I once thought was a real sardine. Alas, no more giving Sardines a black eye.

Why aren’t sardines popular? Is it because Heathcliff used to scour back alley garbage cans for these little guys? Is it because we are under the impression that they manifest themselves within the four walls of a peel back can? It’s a mystery to me because I am ready to make these incredibly delicious and nutritious fish the Zack Morris of the Seafood World. It’s pretty cool to be a Sardinsta.

Sardines represent underutilized species of sustainable seafood. Sardines are abundant and fished in environmentally friendly ways. Quotas are carefully managed: Fishermen are allowed only 80,000 tons annually, just over 10 percent of the peak haul in the 1930s. They reproduce quickly and at a very young age. From a health perspective they are short lived, therefore they do not have a substantial amount of time to absorb harmful toxins and mercury into their bodies. This makes sardines a great choice for Pregnant women and children. Sardines contain high levels of protein and omega-3s.

Most importantly however, Sardines are delicious. Shatter the idea that sardines come from a can and replace the fixture with reality; Sardines can be crispy, tender, rich, and complex when simply prepared—Flavor Country. Easy to cook, they are great grilled or pan roasted with a touch of citrus, sea salt, fresh herbs, and probably a bit of love.

Sardines can be purchased at most Japanese markets as well as Whole Foods. If your store does not carry sardines, most likely they can be special ordered.

Grilled Sardines with Toasted Pistacho

Serves Two

4 whole Sardines (Mitsuwa Marketplace in Torrance)
1 lemon sliced in half
3 tble crushed toasted pistachio
1 teaspoon ground fennel
2 tble extra virgon olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste

It is essential to have the grill turned to high heat in order to create a crispy skin and cook the sardine in a short period of time.

When buying sardines whole most likely they will still have their bellies intact. The easiest way to clean them is to take a knife and cut the entire sardine open on the belly side. Place the sardine under running water and pull all the insides out until clean. Pat them dry and rub them with salt, pepper and olive oil. Place the sardines on the grill and cook on each side for roughly 2 minutes (the skin will start to crackle and smoke, this is ok). While the sardines are cooking place the lemon on the grill cut side down as well in order to slightly caramelize the juices. Remove the sardines from the grill and place them direcly on a serving plate. Drizzle with the warm lemon, pistachio and fennel dust. Serve immeadiatley.

Note: The best way to remove the sardine filet from the fish is to take a fork and pull the meat away from the back bone. The entire fillet should come off clean leaving the head and back bone behind.

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