The blog is an informal platform for Andrew and Dave to discuss the ins and outs of starting a seafood promotion program. It's no picnic... or is it one big picnic with tons of great seafood?! You decide. Loosen your tie and weigh in on current topics here.

Archive for June, 2009

And More Burgers…

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

While Dave was surrendering to his craving for red meat on one side of town, I was simultaneously in search of the best burger south of Long Beach.  I must admit, while Dave’s pictures and ketchup stains do look appealing, and encourage my desire to have a burger eating contest with myself at this very moment in time, I am fairly confident that the burger at The Crow Bar  in Corona Del Mar might be the sole deity in the pantheon of burger gods and goddesses (but that is yet to be proven—see me 100 pounds from now). Before I get into the juicy details of my burger tryst, it is important to recognize how eating a burger relates to sustainable seafood.

The underlying dilemma that we face as a seafood advisory program is that ultimately we are working to transform American dining habits.  Our success is gauged by the decrease in demand for unsustainable seafood, and the increase in consumption of a diversified plate of food; all of which should protect our seafood supply and marine eco system.  A current snapshot of consumer preference reflects a fairly uninspiring palette, laden with the erroneous assumption that each and every meal should contain meat or fish, and in most cases, in amounts that exceed 8 oz . This think big–fill the plate mentality has given birth to the current trend of super-sizing. Huge portions, all-you-can-eat-buffets, and extra-large “single servings” of chips, candy bars, and other snack foods can all act as the entry fee into a club of American restaurants. This effectively misleads the consumer into visualizing an inexhaustible supply of fish and meat, and hedges against our argument that eating smaller portions of responsible food is a means by which to ensure the future of seafood.

Large portions of food are fundamentally contrary to the spirit of sustainable dining. The culinary point of diminishing returns is that point at which each bite isn’t quite as good as the previous bite.  From a chef’s perspective, this is the motivation to create magic in small portions- the idea that each bite beyond that first delectable love affair with a new flavor only acts to rival your overall perception of that dish.  This is the foundation of tapas, tasting menus, small plates, and quite frankly the mini burger or “slider”.  If the national standard for seafood portion size dropped from the current 8 oz. of fish to 4 oz., a significant change could occur in species biomass, and could effectively reduce pressure on certain fish species. 

So how does this related to that enigmatic burger at The Crowbar? Chef Scott Brandon appreciates the notion of less is more, and his mission for ‘the crow bar and kitchen’ is a focus on quality and good community stewardship.  In direct contrast to the movement of bigger=better, Chef Scott creates a burger at Crowbar that uses only 1/4 pound of all natural angus and prime beef, the perfect amount needed to create one of the most flavor-packed burger experiences in the nation.  The bun was fresh, soft and lightly grilled on both sides with a flawless crumb.  The interior of the bun was brushed with their secret sauce; sweet and wholesome with enough vinegar to cut through the richness of the burger.  The meat to bread ratio was spot on.  Nestled underneath the burger patty was a thin slice of onion so flavorful I wanted to eat it for dessert.  The first bite of the burger revealed a fresh beef flavor intermingling with cool crisp butter lettuce, sweet vine ripe tomatoes, and sharp cheddar cheese.  Flavor country anyone?  Each subsequent bite yielded the same culinary melody of fresh meat, sharp cheese, and smoky goodness, all washed with the freshness of those ripe tomatoes and cool lettuce.  By the time I finished my burger, I wasn’t hungry, but I wasn’t full either.  I was content.  An idea that is the ultimate foppery in the modern food world; the essence of eating slow, enjoying the luxury of good food, and quantifying it’s worth not in ounces but instead culinary currency—flavor.

The burger at The Crow Bar is more than portion, it is about adopting a habit that encourages people to appreciate the food they eat and the craft within.  The more we become attached to our food, their sources, and the intricate nature that lives in each bite, we can appreciate our diverse connection with our ecosystem.

Fish and eggs, stingrays, and burgers

Monday, June 1st, 2009
Wahoo and eggs

Wahoo and eggs

Fish for breakfast is common in many cultures, including back home in Hawaii. Wahoo is known there as “Ono,” which can be translated as “delicious.”  This one, however: not so much.  Plus – as I’m sure one of my high school FB friends will point out – there should be more ketchup on the eggs and the rice should be of the white, sticky variety served with an ice-cream scoop.  Back to French toast for me.

I’m trying to seek out some of the more unusual fish dishes here in Los Angeles (much to the chagrin of my digestive system) partly because of the volunteering I’ve been doing at the Aquarium’s round ray tanks.  These cute little buggers are all about the size of a saucer and soft as velvet.  That’s right, it’s a petting tank, where hoards of children are instructed daily to pet with two fingers only, and we try to keep them from falling in.  Immediately after asking whether they will get stung or bitten  (no you will not), children often ask whether you can eat round rays.  I tell them, shush, it’s not a polite topic to discuss in front of them.  However, cocktail sauce is available for $2.99.  Kidding. But it got me thinking.

California Round Rays at the Aquarium of the Pacific

California Round Rays at the Aquarium of the Pacific

So, a little girl came by with her family during a lull in the crowds last week, and we were chatting it up.  She happily chased the rays around the tank as her family beamed behind her.  Finally, she asked whether she it was possible to keep one as a pet.  Sure, I say, why don’t you put one in your pocket.  In fact, I say, I’ll give you a dollar if you can catch one.  Let me state for the record that I was not serious.  However, in this case I underestimated the fact that, to this girl, a dollar represented a small fortune.  Plus, she so clearly would have done it for free.  Her tiny head snapped up and she locked eyes with me, with a look that said, mister you have got yourself a deal and if you are pulling my leg I will scream.  I can only describe the scene that followed as a shark attack, but with slightly more giggling.  Gallons of water ended up on the walls.  I was afraid that she would fall in.  I was certain that she wouldn’t be able to catch one.  But then she did.  My jaw practically dropped as she cradled it firmly but gently at the surface.  And the look of loathing in the eyes of that ray, I’ll never forget.  It was a surprisingly hateful expression for an animal with no face.  The child’s family was going into laughing fits behind her.  I had nothing to say.  I just gave the girl a dollar.

Since the trick to omega fatty acids is balancing intake of seafood and red meat, I thought it was about time for a burger this weekend.  Andrew’s impromptu burger survey and Chef Paul Buchanan’s recommendations led us to Bouchees Bistro in Long Beach.  It does not take too much online searching to find that everybody loves Bouchees.  And for good reason.  In addition to the specialty burgers and sliders, Chef Tony Zervas serves up a specialty burger every month.  As it turns out, I got the. Very. Last. Elk Burger with homemade horseradish sauce.  It was amazing.

Sliders

Sliders

(Don’t worry, this month Bouchees is serving Bison burgers.)  Emily got a crab cake slider and an ahi tuna slider, which I would have done I were a good seafood guy.  But I had fish for breakfast.  Both of the sliders were gone before I had a chance to taste.  Em says they were delicious.  Don’t forget the home cut fries and fresh ketchup.  We did not get a chance to try the rhubarb crumble, which they were out of just then.  Bouchees has a number of specialty beers and cupcakes available, too, as well as veggie and turkey burgers. Highly, highly recommended.

Burgers at Bouchees

Burgers at Bouchees

Local Food

Monday, June 1st, 2009

Local Food and Local Farms