Recently we have been having conversations with chefs and consumers about farmed seafood—Aquaculture. Unfortunately, the general perception of this practice is a negative one. Defined loosely aquaculture refers to the breeding, rearing, and harvesting of plants and animals in all types of water environments. Currently aquaculture is the fastest growing form of food production in the world. It is also a significant source of protein for people in many countries, including the United States. Globally, nearly half the fish consumed by humans is produced by fish farms (noaa). So why is it perceived as a 4 letter word here in the United States?
The best way to examine this issue is through the world of salmon farming. As the demand for salmon has essentially distended year after year, farms have been tapping waters everywhere. From Canada to Chile, Tasmania and Scotland, salmon farming has lapped wild salmon in output capacity. As is the case in any international commodity trade, there are good players, bad players, honest players and dishonest ones. Certain farms have been guilty of stocking their ponds beyond reasonable density, perpetuating the outbreak of sea lice, and ultimately allowing their diseased salmon to escape and spread amongst the wild population. At the same time however, there are salmon farmers who are producing a product that is healthy, respects the surrounding environment, and uses no chemicals as treatment for disease. Should these farmers be punished as well, or should they be applauded for their efforts to make a positive change in an industry that clearly is the future? By making all-inclusive statements like “farmed fish is bad” or “aquaculture is not the answer to overfishing” are we further closing the door on an opportunity to exhibit our marine stewardship, and thus take the pressure off wild fish?
It is a scientific guarantee that the supply of wild fish will NEVER meet the worldwide demand. So what is the answer? How can we continue to eat heart healthy fish at a rate of 2-3 times a week and not take into consideration alternatives once we have eaten our way through the ocean? America is behind in the world of aquaculture. As a result of the pessimism surrounding the notion of fish farming, and the millions of dollars spent painting farmed fish as evil, the government has been unable to establish the systems and regulations required to cultivate the aquaculture industry here in the United States. Recently, Obama was attacked for trying to increase spending on the study of viable aquaculture practices. Opponents critiqued that this would be the catalyst for the depletion of even more wild fish as they would be used in fish feed. What do you think wild fish eat in the ocean….tofu? No, they consumer the same fish, but at an inefficient rate. Farmed fish require less wild feed per pound of output than wild species.
America needs to set the (or a) standard for sustainable fish farming. As a scientifically rich nation, with forward thinking values committed to a sustainable platform, we can develop and homogenize a program that takes into consideration clean and healthy practices. Unfortunately this is not happening, and instead underdeveloped countries with minimal care for the marine environment are farming in a dangerous manner, while we sit around and split hairs about fishery management.
Don’t misinterpret this post as unequivocally supporting farmed fish. Quite the opposite rather. There are farms in Asia, Scotland, Chili, Canada…that are farming irresponsibly. They are producing in such a manner as to destroy communities, ecosystems and wild fish through irresponsible practices in an effort to maximize profits. But don’t we do the same thing through commercial fishing. How are we any more enlightened by trawling for wild shrimp, longlining for wild tuna, or allowing right whales to die in Maine lobster lines? Why is one better than the other? At what point is by-catch acceptable or for that matter, “sustainable”. It’s not a black and white issue, and it never will be. It makes me really uncomfortable to say only eat green species, or don’t eat farmed fish. Just because a species might be “green” doesn’t mean it’s not being over-fished. As consumers we can make a bigger difference by putting down the wallet cards and encouraging the consumption of responsibly farmed seafood here in the US. The solution resides in the point at which effective fishery management meets responsible aquaculture.
Below are some great products that are responsibly farmed and wonderful companies that recognize the need for responsible aquaculture:
