The blog is an informal platform for Andrew and Dave to discuss the ins and outs of starting a seafood promotion program. It's no picnic... or is it one big picnic with tons of great seafood?! You decide. Loosen your tie and weigh in on current topics here.

Archive for April, 2009

Searching for Some Serious Seafood

Saturday, April 11th, 2009

Seriously, on good Friday what is there better to do than tour the fish markets of the oAs angeles port. Our first stop was Berth 55 Seafood Market and Fish Deli. Definitely not fine dining, so don’t worry about dress code (or even sanitation for that matter). The concept is pretty cool. You walk into the store and there is a full fish counter with really fresh seafood. Red Snapper, Tilapia, Halibut, Shrimp, Scallops, Clams…. You order your seafood and they pull it right from the counter, and cook it for you in the improve kitchen that they have set up behind the counter (essentially three guys in ripped tank tops pumping out delicious hot seafood). While the health inspection report here might not rival that of a nice restaurant, the seafood is fresh and cooked directly from the counter. I had the seafood taco plate. Three soft tacos packed with sauteed tilapia (or snapper not sure), topped with salsa verde, crisp cabbage, tomatoes, and a dash of love. Pretty cool concept. The clam chowder looked amazing. Thick chowder stuffed into a bread bowl ala 1985…….think Betty Crocker Cookbook. Dave had a snickers bar before we went out, so he just watched me eat. Don’t worry though, the snickers bar was sustainable.

Next stop was the San Pedro Fish markets. Any time you walk into a fish market and the entry way is filled with arcade games, it is a sure sign of quality fish. The first thing you see in the market is that iconic carnival machine with the claw that grabs a teddy bear. Only in this case the claw enters a lobster tank and you go fishing for a fresh maine lobster. Not a joke, pretty cruel way to go fishing……So Dave and I gave it our college try, only to disappoint the crowd of kids by not catching anything at all. After being verbally abused by the band of children, we checked out the rest of the market. Wow, tons of fresh whole fish. Literally all species of fish and a lot of it local caught. The outdoor patio was filled with people eating fried fish neck, tacos, viagra oysters (not a joke), and whole baked fish fresh from the counter.

Right here in our own backyard we can buy fish caught directly from local waters. The prices are more than reasonable, the freshness is not even a factor, and the convenience of getting to these markets far outweighs arm wrestling for a parking spot at your local albertsons. We can only encourage you to eat local and live green, but your palette should have some say in this argument as well. Which would you rather buy, fresh caught yellowtail and white bass from Catalina Island, or pre-frozen, scarred, unsustainable tuna from Indonesia? Hmmmm. eat up.

Tracht’s restaurant, Long Beach

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

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Chef Michael Poompan at Tracht’s got on the sustainable seafood train long before we came along. From his all-day dining menu, I picked the fried oysters and the deviled eggs with Dungeness crab. De-lish. I’m not really a huge fan of oysters, having seen many strip-spawned and abused in the genetics lab, but it’s amazing how a little breading and cocktail sauce can help overcome these prejudices. Last month, chef Michael demoed Dungeness crab at our Sustainable Seafood Day in his Dungeness Crab Salad with Avocado, Mizuna, and Jalapeno-Grapefruit Vinaigrette.  Yeah, yum.

Andrew opted for the BLT. I can’t complain, since he gave me half. I’ll try to get his on-camera comments up soon.

Michael promised to get us more information on his Earth Day banquet, which will be served family-style at one giant table.  I might have to be there for that one.

Friday Night Fish Fest

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

Friday afternoon is rumored to be the biggest shopping day for seafood in the week, specifically during lent season.  Whether you are buying fish for religious purposes or just the sheer pleasure of eating the tastiest, healthiest protein in the world, lets make your shopping a bit more fun.  

First off think local.  Thousand mile air-freighted fish is the first of several insults to local sensibilities.  Instead of reaching for the farm raised salmon or the Tuna from god knows where, and preparing the same mundane fish dish with lemon and dill that we have seen a millions times on Rachel Rays 30 minute meals, try substituting an alternative fish. One species that pops into my head when I think delicious domestic fish is Trout.  Simple to prepare, versatile, not too fishy and east to adapt into any recipe.  Rainbow trout is an excellent  substitute for salmon.  It is available fresh and frozen year-round. The system for raising rainbow trout in the U.S. is well established and carefully regulated so that waste water does not harm the local environment or water supply.  Trout goes well over a fresh vegetable salad, topped with toasted almonds, a light sherry vinaigrette and a touch of fresh tarragon.  The key with trout is to cook it for only a few minutes flesh side down.  Our suggestions are as follows:

Heat a pan large enough to hold your trout filet.  Add olive oil and wait until the oil is barely shimmering.   Season your trout with salt and fresh cracked pepper.  Add the trout to the pan flesh side down making sure to shake the pan as you add the fish in order to avoid sticking.  Once the fish is in the pan be patient.  Sear for 4 minutes and flip the fish gently.  Cook the fish with the skin on for another 3 minutes.  Don’t be concerned if it sticks a bit.  After 3 minutes add a touch of white wine, butter and toasted almonds or hazelnuts.  Swirl the sauce together basting the fish as it finishes (this final sauce step should only take 30 seconds). Remove the fish and place over a light salad of chilled arugula, green beans, shaved red onion, and torn rustic bread.

An authentic spring dish with minimal effort.   If trout doesn’t frizzle your fancy, try fresh California sturgen.  Rub the rich filet down with extra virgin olive oil and a mixture of herbs.  Place on a bed of celery and roast in a 400F oven for 12 minutes or until the fish is starting to flake to the center.  Drizzle with a mixture of mustard and balsamic vinaigrette and serve with your favorite local vegetables.

Serving Salmon and shrimp are attractive in a culinary coffee book kind of way, but wowing your pallette with new, sustainable flavors, simply prepared with bold brushstrokes is exciting.  Cooking new fish is an adrenaline rush.  The window of perfection is so small, and the delicate nature of lightly woven proteins allows for multiple disasters in one pan. The inexperience with new fish calls for precise attention.  But when practiced artfully and deliberately, the rewards are undeniably satisfying.  So put down the Mickey D’s sandwhich ‘o’ fish filet, and lets cook.

Responsible Demand

Thursday, April 2nd, 2009

Jacques Pepin once said in a NY Times Op-Ed piece “Chef’s make choices every day—choices that are not related solely to the presentation of the finest culinary creations one can imagine. Now more than ever, it is clear our choices can affect the environment.” This statement couldn’t be more true, but chefs make choices based on consumer demand, so ultimately it is the consumer who has the final vote.

The solitary reason retail operations, restaurants, and suppliers still sell seafood that is captured in a manner that harms the environment, produces extensive bycatch and supports inhumane working conditions is because we still buy it. I’ll admit, as one who has worked in the restaurant industry for years, I am amazed at how little I knew about sustainable seafood. If it is abundant, sold in many locations and the customers want it, what’s the problem? The problem is that a large amount of seafood being purchased and sold at restaurants and markets in the United States is either being over-fished or is caught in an unsustainable manner, customarily from international waters. The paradox however, is that the smaller the supply/biomass of a particular fish species, the higher the demand is for the species, and therefore the higher the price. This is the tipping point; when an item is in high demand due to low stock levels, it is even more attractive to chefs and consumers. At this point, people seek out restaurants where they can indulge in the delicacies of a highly sought after seafood item. Indeed we rarely know the environmental effects of our decision, and consequently perpetuate irresponsible fishing practices.

Let’s talk Bluefin Tuna. Who doesn’t love toro? The buttery meat of the tuna belly. The cotton candy of fish literally melts in your mouth. I could honestly eat toro all day long. Unfortunately this pleasure is far from sustainable. In recent years bluefin commonly grew to more that 1,000 pounds. Currently, most are caught before they even reach 400 pounds. Bluefin Tuna stocks are beyond exploited, and yet makes an appearance on virtually every sushi menu spanning from here to Japan. Why? Because we demand it.

So it is proven that market behavior will influence supplier behavior. Since there are inevitably more consumers than fisherman and suppliers, it’s an easy change to make right??……..

In our upcoming posts we will address those species whose stocks are being depleted due to our own dining decisions. We will provide you with delicious recipes and cooking demonstrations utilizing little-known sustainable seafood. We will feature chefs, restaurateurs and fisheries that are making strides toward a manageable future. Most importantly we will provide a forum through which foodies and chefs can meet on issues related to sustainable seafood.

A great big welcome to us.

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

Nothing like launching on April Fools’ Day.  But – contrary to what you might have heard – it’s no joke.  And that’s not just my feeble sense of humor talking.  We are launching this blog with a mission: to bring you the experience of the most outstanding cuisine in Los Angeles, especially where seafood is concerned. 

In a few short weeks, we hope to have you wiping the drool off of your keyboards and licking your widescreen HD displays.  Oh, sure, we’re all about ecological sustainability and proper ocean resource management.  You can find all the studies and data on our *real* website, www.seafoodforthefuture.org.  Here, when I say “sustainable seafood,” I might mean “I’m going back for thirds on that shrimp.”  I’m just giving  you a heads up on that.  Also, join our FB page for the Seafood fot the Future program here.  Learn all about our local events, partner restaurants,  and cooking demos.

Want us to feature a great restaurant, recipe, drink, locale…?  Send it on in, and we’ll check it out.

- Dave and Andrew