Jacques Pepin once said in a NY Times Op-Ed piece “Chef’s make choices every day—choices that are not related solely to the presentation of the finest culinary creations one can imagine. Now more than ever, it is clear our choices can affect the environment.” This statement couldn’t be more true, but chefs make choices based on consumer demand, so ultimately it is the consumer who has the final vote.
The solitary reason retail operations, restaurants, and suppliers still sell seafood that is captured in a manner that harms the environment, produces extensive bycatch and supports inhumane working conditions is because we still buy it. I’ll admit, as one who has worked in the restaurant industry for years, I am amazed at how little I knew about sustainable seafood. If it is abundant, sold in many locations and the customers want it, what’s the problem? The problem is that a large amount of seafood being purchased and sold at restaurants and markets in the United States is either being over-fished or is caught in an unsustainable manner, customarily from international waters. The paradox however, is that the smaller the supply/biomass of a particular fish species, the higher the demand is for the species, and therefore the higher the price. This is the tipping point; when an item is in high demand due to low stock levels, it is even more attractive to chefs and consumers. At this point, people seek out restaurants where they can indulge in the delicacies of a highly sought after seafood item. Indeed we rarely know the environmental effects of our decision, and consequently perpetuate irresponsible fishing practices.
Let’s talk Bluefin Tuna. Who doesn’t love toro? The buttery meat of the tuna belly. The cotton candy of fish literally melts in your mouth. I could honestly eat toro all day long. Unfortunately this pleasure is far from sustainable. In recent years bluefin commonly grew to more that 1,000 pounds. Currently, most are caught before they even reach 400 pounds. Bluefin Tuna stocks are beyond exploited, and yet makes an appearance on virtually every sushi menu spanning from here to Japan. Why? Because we demand it.
So it is proven that market behavior will influence supplier behavior. Since there are inevitably more consumers than fisherman and suppliers, it’s an easy change to make right??……..
In our upcoming posts we will address those species whose stocks are being depleted due to our own dining decisions. We will provide you with delicious recipes and cooking demonstrations utilizing little-known sustainable seafood. We will feature chefs, restaurateurs and fisheries that are making strides toward a manageable future. Most importantly we will provide a forum through which foodies and chefs can meet on issues related to sustainable seafood.








